Joystick project

by **Flack** » Sun Jul 26, 2015 2:35 pm

Wow man, that's awesome!

I have an original Atari 2600 joystick hooked up to my computer through a db9-to-usb adapter and I don't recall any lag. Could be I'm misremembering it. Would love to compare sticks! (Wait, that sounds wrong.) Also, LOVE the click sound. I still use Epyx sticks and they sound just like that.

by **AArdvark** » Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:28 am

First test video. Loud clicky Boulderdash. Maybe it's the USB connection or the emulation, or both, but it just doesn't seem as responsive as I remember on real hardware with a DB9 connection. It's better than it was and that's the real point.

[youtube][/youtube]

THE
CONSTANTLY IMPROVING
AARDVARK

by **AArdvark** » Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:21 am

There, all wired up

I put in small screws so I can adjust the movement sensitivity and eliminate a big dead zone.

by **AArdvark** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:33 pm

I swear, I'm going to finish this project, just need some more spare time.

If SlickStick ever comes out with a USB model I would do another switch mod in a heartbeat. That was the best joystick I ever had. Now I feel bad I tossed it when I got rid of all my C64 stuff. I feel bad I got rid of all my Commodore stuff period, actually.

THE
WHO KNEW
AARDVARK

by **Flack** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:31 pm

Looking good! If you ever start another project and need more of those switches, let me know. I have a box of 100 or so out in the garage.

I just picked up 2 Atari 2600 joysticks from a flea market for $2 each. Neither one works. I have an entire drawer full of old broken Atari sticks. It's time to either see if they can be fixed or get rid of them.

by **AArdvark** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:51 pm

After grinding down the support posts with my trusty Dremel tool, the board sits nicely inside the case. I had to take a lot of the metal soldering points off the switches but it's enough to connect the leads.

by **AArdvark** » Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:04 am

It's time, gentlemen. It's time to get irreversible.

Holes...drilled

switches and epoxy

Make sure the actuators sit thru the holes properly

by **AArdvark** » Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:57 am

A quick video of me testing the contacts to ensure the joystick will work as anticipated

I should have used Youtube instead of my Photobucket page. Oh well, it's nothing special. I have Defender loaded in Vice while I repeatedly touch a piece of red wire to the joystick circuit board to make it fire.

Next stop: mounting the micro switches.

THE
FOUR WAY PLUS FIRE
AARDVARK

by **AArdvark** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 4:44 pm

Props to the crystal retro people for putting in support posts right under the switch contacts. However, they will need to be shaved down to nubs to make room for the microswitches. My trusty Dremel tool wand attachment and cutoff wheel will come in handy here. My kid bought me this whole suitcase thing full of generic Dremel attachments (grinding discs and high speed brushes and stuff) from Harbor Freight. I might have to open it and actually use some of the stuff in there.

I said pix so here we are:

The patient. We can rebuild it, make it faster, stronger....

The back side. Rough layout of switch location.

by **Ice Cream Jonsey** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:20 am

Are you going to expand the base of the 2600 joystick? I would think there's not enough room for four microswitches????

by **AArdvark** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 5:40 pm

Solitare and Minesweeper do not require a joystick.

I have a sidewinder gamepad and a sidewinder thrust stick for airplane games. Guess all I need to do now is install one.
The gamepad is weird because the D-pad is at an angle to the left boomerang grip. Up feels like I'm pressing left and always messes me up. I tried playing Zelda with it and just couldn't deal with it. Ended up hooking up my PS3 controller to the laptop and using that. Much better. Pain in the ass to configure but much better control.

THE
XY
AB
AARDVARK

by **Tdarcos** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 12:10 pm

I bought a USB Joystick from the local flea market last year for $3. Works okay, only problem is none of the games I have recognize a joystick. Also, I downloaded the test program with the driver from the manufacturer's website, and the on-screen display shows when any of the nine buttons - I kid you not, seven on the base, a push button on top of the stick and a trigger on the back - have been depressed, MCICONTROL only supports events for 2 buttons for a program to read from a joystick.

by **AArdvark** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 1:03 pm

Its' almost like they want a body to improve these things.

With these

Still has the glue marks from the 1980s joystick project.

by **Ice Cream Jonsey** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:00 pm

This is great. It is a Celebrity Monologue, and you are doing an amazing project.

I'm proud already.

I've got a couple 2600 joysticks floating around and yeah, they are SOFT ASS SHIT.

by **AArdvark** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:55 pm

Well, I don't really have the time to play any of the mame games in a serious manner, there's too many other things going on at Casa Del La AArdvark, buuuuut...

I have one of these Atari reto crystal usb joysticks.

It's ok. it works fairly well and a lot better than my sidewinder gamepad, plus, you know, it's Atari shaped and it glows blue.

But it also has an Atari joystick mushy feel to it. I opened it up and saw how the contacts worked, meh.

'BUT WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT IT?' you ask?

Well, remember when I took a slick stick and replaced the analog metal-to-metal contact points with actual microswitches? I still have those microswitches. And the circuit board for the Crystal Classic already has extra solder points, just in case someone wants to hack it. Someone like me. I'll document this with photos as I go so everyone can see exactly when I brick...heh, I mean, sucessfully modify my joystick for pinpoint digital control.

THE
ALWAYS SOMETHING
AARDVARK

Joystick project

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Joystick project