In this thread, I harass Aardvark for help with a project

RetroRomper · Post by **RetroRomper** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:04 pm

A few years ago, I had asked Aardvark if he wouldn't mind CNCing a few simple shapes out of sheet metal for me. Being the stand up guy he is, he said yes as long as I could provide a CAD drawing of some kind.

I never provided that drawing.

So I'm here now to ask him a few more questions:

1. Would you still be willing to help another pasty white guy out if I FINALLY provide the CAD specs?

2. Would you happen to know if there is a metal that can go to 30+ gauge, be cut, and remain rigid afterwards while also being handled?

That is all.

Retro

RetroRomper · Post by **RetroRomper** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:04 pm

Did I say thank you?! No, I didn't say thank you!

Thank you in advance, Mr. Aardvark!

AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Sat Jun 11, 2016 10:44 am

I vaguely remember this conversation. Can you give me a recap to catch me up?

30 gage is right around .015 thick. That's like really thick tinfoil; think feeler gages. Maybe spring steel would work, something that's been tempered or half hardened. What are you making?

THE
PRELIMINARY DESIGN
AARDVARK

RetroRomper · Post by **RetroRomper** » Sat Jun 11, 2016 3:58 pm

We're making a custom shaped pottery rib, essentially this except in a slightly different shape, size, and a whole different material:

The requirements are:

Thickness: as thin as possible
Dimensions 5x3 with a curve, kidney bean shaped.
Strength / Properties: May mind slightly, but needs to be equivalent to say, 8 gauge stainless or so in rigidity.

The catch here is the thinner the better, which taken to a logical conclusion, can go a bit nuts with weird alloys and metals, such as:

https://shop.plansee.com/EN/category/PL ... %20quality

Though their minimal price is 300 EU, so it is a bit out of reach. There are also other metals that come in sheets such as Inconol:

http://www.californiametal.com/inconel.htm

Really comes down to the thickness (plus the associated ductility, impact resistance, etc.)

What do you think?

AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Sat Jun 11, 2016 4:03 pm

3 X 5 is doable, and available. Maybe stainless shim stock would work. What's it do?

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RetroRomper · Post by **RetroRomper** » Mon Jun 13, 2016 12:09 pm

I do not believe shims would work well and as I am going as radical as possible, whatever metal is able to go stupidly thin while remaining rigidity would be preferably.

As for what it is used for a few things:

1. Straightening / adjusting the clay of a freshly thrown piece (pot, vase, etc.)

2. Removes what are called "throwing rings" or thin lines of clay on the outside of the piece.

The video at is a little off in regards to how it is used, but does communicate the main idea.

AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Tue Jun 14, 2016 6:07 pm

What about something that's say...1/16 thick but thins out as it gets to the edges? That way it will still be fairly rigid yet still be thin as a blade by the working edge.

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RetroRomper · Post by **RetroRomper** » Thu Jun 16, 2016 4:14 am

Having a sharpened edge was the first thought, but having a sharp edge that can cut through the clay is actually anathema to the rib's application. Specifically, this is because it will be used sort of "blind" within the vase, vessel, etc. or with feel.

I'll actually confirm that last point, but what do you think about having a non-sharp, thin "edge?"

AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 3:02 pm

So I made this thing today....

Stainless steel, about .035 thick. Pretty rigid stuff.

Will it work? It's not close to the above picture but I was going from memory. I suppose I could make a Dig Dug mask out of it or something if it wont.

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NOW WHAT?
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RetroRomper · Post by **RetroRomper** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 5:54 pm

That is freakin awesome! Beyond cool that you were able to do that from memory (and you should do the dig dug mask regardless.)

Okay, maybe a little confusion on my part as we were still talking about the specs? I'm including an image of the exact shape and size below:

The steel plate you cut is a thicker than 21 gauge, which is a slight improvement on the ribs already out there, but I was looking for 30+? Keeping rigidy / finding a metal that has that property at that thinness will be challenge... But let me ask my questions directly:

1. Would it be helpful for me to try my hand at AutoCad and pound out a schematic of the above?

2. To ask directly, what're your additional thoughts on going to 30+ gauge while keeping the metal rigid? Maybe flatten this with a hydraulic press and see what happens?

3. If it helps, may I reimburse you for your time? I'm willing to pay for materials regardless.

Hmm.... Maybe the metal from X Com would be suitable?

[youtube][/youtube]

Alien metal or a jagged piece of a shower duct, you decide!

AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 5:58 pm

Let me try your sketch in stainless and see if you like it. It will be in imperial cause I doan likee teh metric. 2.63 x 2.75 inches with a full radius. I assume these dimensions are not critical to function. I can't read the note going around the edge. I think it says 'curve is Edge' which might be a U2 reference. I'll see if I can get it done by this weekend.

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AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Sat Jun 25, 2016 9:21 am

This'll do the trick!

PM me with a mailing address and I'll get Mr McFeeley right on it.

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HUP! HUP!
AARDVARK

Ice Cream Jonsey · Post by **Ice Cream Jonsey** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 7:59 am

This thread is why Machinist is one of the character classes in Cyberganked, and Aardvark is the Patron Saint of the class.

AArdvark · Post by **AArdvark** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 2:48 pm

Mailed! It's in the hands of the Postmaster General now.

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